Brains, trains and cable cars in Medellin….and a 4 month update

After sailing into Cartagena, I was a bit over the heat and decided to bypass Santa Marta. After spending three months along both the Pacific and Caribbean coastlines and cruising through multiple islands along the way, I was well and truly ready for a change of climate and scenery so I booked a flight to Medellin.  

I’ve been in Medellin,  for three weeks now and what people have said about it is true. It is a definitely a special place. Fellow travellers who I had met along the way had told me that it’s a great place to stop by. As I was looking for a place I could slow down and improve my Spanish so it looked like Medellin was the perfect place to do so. Ben, an ex colleague from Sydney had also thrown in the towel at work and decided to go travelling and was also heading this way.  We ended up meeting another couple of Aussies, Ivan and Rashana (the locals call her Rihanna) in the hostel who were looking to spend some time here studying Spanish and dancing as they are mad salsa enthusiasts. So we ended up using our collective bargaining power and found a four bedroom apartment in a nice part of town called El Poblado.

So over the last three weeks as I’ve grappled with improving my Spanish (as well as latin dancing). For me it’s been a slow and at times frustrating process, although I have to admit that I probably haven’t applied myself to it as much as I should post class with homework. Over this time, I’ve also come to develop some sort of affection towards the city of Medellin and have become increasingly fascinated with it’s transformation over the past twenty years as well as with the local Paisa people.

Like most people, my only knowledge of Medellin was that it was home of Colombia’s most infamous son, Pablo Escobar who along with his not so nice friends plunged the city into a nearly two decades of fear and terror during the 80’s and 90’s, until he was gunned down in a shower of bullets in 1993. When I was researching for this trip I had read how Medellin was voted the most innovative country in the world, ahead of some pretty well developed cities such as New York and Paris. So how does a city turn things around from a city and country on the verge of self implosion and and unthinkable violence to one thriving without the risk of of being murdered when heading to the local store?

Cue the history lesson…

You have to start before the cocaine and killing started taking over the city and country. Prior to this Medellin was a prosperous city, booming through industrialisation and trade. With this came a booming population, thus projecting it from a provincial town to a complex urban city on par with any other industrialised city in the world. Fast forward a few years, mix together an increasing population with an increasingly unstable national government and drug cartels and you’re left with a mountain of social issues on your hands. The solution for the city was to build public projects for the people such as the metro system. The only one in Colombia. More importantly, the metro system would not be built just for the working class, but be built as a symbol to bridge the disconnect between the poor and the rest of the city.

The metro line splits the city between North and South (23km) and East to West (5.6km). It’s hard to believe the peak of the construction was during the years of violence and bloodshed, however in true Paisa spirit they still got on with the job and in 1995 the first passengers were transported went through the turnstiles. Today, $1 on the metro buys you a trip to anywhere in city. As most of the station lines are elevated above the road levels, you’re  able to get off at most stops to take in the views of the surrounding neighborhoods from the platform  and then jump back on to the train. It’s a social and engineering marvel and something the locals are proud of. One look at the platform and trains and they are spotless.

So one does not simply build a metro system and expect an immediate change in behaviour or alleviate any fear of going out in the streets. The most powerful tool against crime and violence for the city was education and access to employment for the poor. The public works development continued with a cable car that runs up the eastern side of the city. Two stops to Santo Dominigo where it was considered to be one of the most dangerous places in the city is now the site of the Espana Library Park. This is no ordinary park though, but a massive library park in Medellin’s once most marginalised areas now bridging the social disparities where it is safe for ordinary citizens and tourist to visit. All up there are seven parks throughout the city, all of which are now popular amongst younger people and promote sustainability, cultural diversity, technology, entrepreneurship and community participation. This audacious project was a sign of a revival after years of violence and bloodshed with the people placed first in mind.

You talk to any local Paisa here about the past and they will generally brush over the topic and say we should all look forward to the future. I went on a city tour with a local guide who explained that the way of dealing with the atrocities in the past was to bury it deep and move on. The time I’ve spent here I have felt that it goes more beyond that though. They are a unique group of people: Hard working, full of pride and solidarity and overall are happy with a playful spirit most likely due to the eternal spring like climate all year round. Whilst I was on the tour of the city we were stopped everywhere by locals wanting to make sure we were ok or that the guide should be talking to us in the shade. It demonstrates a genuine, caring nature and a sense of Paisa pride and desire to let the world know that Medellin is a great city to be recognised.

That’s a pretty snappy summary of how Medellin stands out to me in the short time that I’ve been here. It can be tough not being able to speak fluent Spanish, however it’s the challenge that I’ve set myself. It’s no more prevalent than when I’m chatting to them with some Spanish speaking gringos. They will be insistent that I speak Spanish, not in a rude way because I am in their country after all and they genuinely want me to try for my own benefit anyway. The people I have met so far are always passionate and intent on telling me about the town and showing me a great time. It’s this sense of identity that I think back to and can’t help but feel slightly envious about as well as guilty that I know next to nothing or have the same about my own country of heritage and is the main reason as to why I have a deep sense of affection towards countries like here and Guatemala.

So what’s in store for the next month? Well I’ve finished Spanish classes for now so I’ll be doing a lot more exploring of Medellin. The architectural designs of the other public spaces here are stunning and I want to see more of them. Our short term lease on this apartment is up early next month and from then on I’ll head south to Ecuador. I’ll be cutting down the number of cities I’ll visit but the priority for me in Ecuador is to get to the Galapagos. I’m over halfway into the trip now and my focus is to see as many contrasting landscapes throughout this continent so expect some new photos and galleries.

Finally, I’ve tweaked my food section to include recipes tailored to budget and flavour conscious travellers. It’s primarily reader generated If you have any ideas on recipes or tips on places or ways of consuming food anywhere that readers will enjoy, please feel free to submit them.

Follow me on FacebookTwitter or Instagram or complete the subscription form top right of the page for more regular updates.

cartegena

Enjoying the sunset in Cartagena with some friends from the sailing trip

Medellin metro

Spotless throughout

Medellin metro

View from Acevedo metro station

Medellin metro

Biblica Espana (Spanish Library) in Santo Dominico. Once was one of the most dangerous places in the city now can be easily accessed in ten minutes via the metro cable. From here, the local people can travel to the city in under 20 minutes instead of three hours.

medellin metro

The higher you travelled up, the poorer the areas

Medellin

Pablo, who offers free walking tours of the city. He’s lived overseas but returned to share his passion for Medellin and is evident in the way he speaks to entire day. As a kid he was shot at the peak of the violence in the city.

Medellin

La Raza Monument, a work in bronze and concrete by Rodrigo Arenas Betancur, 124 feet tall depicting the history of Medellin. It is located in La Alpujarra Administrative Center.

Park of Lights in Cisneros Square

Medellin

Once occupied by gangs and prostitutes is now the Department of Education

Medellin

Once a refuge for drug addicts is now the Biblioteca EPM. A library dedicated to science, industry, environment and technology.

Medellin

The former central rail station, now a museum

San antonio place

Remnants of ‘The Bird’ sculpture by Fernando Botero that was blown up by a bomb during a music festival in San Antonio Park in 1995 killing 25 people. The officials wanted to remove the damaged sculpture but Fernando was adamant that it should stay as a “homage to stupidity,” a symbol of peace, and a memorial to the victims. A replica is now situated next to it.

medellin palace of culture

The Palace of Culture. Once the Governors House was only half completed when the architect for unknown reasons walked off the job

medellin

Each year Medellin celebrates the Feria de las Flores which is the Festival of the Flowers. It’s a 10 day party that celebrates the values of Antioqua (the state Medellin is in) and concludes with a huge street parade of flowers. Many of the flower arrangements are assembled in Santa Elena, a nearby town and is brought down to Medellin on the final days

Medellin

Any opportunity to dance. In Santa Elena during the Feria de las Flores

Medellin

Making new friends

Medellin

Went to dinner in a neighbouring suburb and the owner and her son came out for a chat. Soon afterwards the tequila came out

guatape

The worlds largest rock in Guatape. 650+ steps to the top. I was pretty excited to be there so I bolted up there without stopping.

Guatape

Ben and Natalia enjoying a dance on a boat cruise. Anytime music comes on, people just dance.

medellin language school

The teachers from Medellin Language Academy (Far left and right) and us students

medellin

Cheese and wine night with friends and the flatmates!

medellin

My empanada guy at El Machetico. Standard snack for the locals. This place is open 24/7 (it seems he works that many hours too) and there is always a lineup. I have developed some sort of addiction to them


Comments

Brains, trains and cable cars in Medellin….and a 4 month update — 6 Comments

  1. You’ve definitely peaked my interest. I’ve always had Columbia on the mind, but now you’ve made me realise i need to get there soon. Also loving the fact that you are staying put in one place for a few weeks. It must make a refreshing change from hotels. Stay safe and keep the comments coming.

    • Kellie you must do it! It will be a very nice change from Central once you travel through. Yep sometimes I get so excited I just get a second wind. My calves were a bit tight the next day though :)

  2. Pingback: My favourite photos of 2013 - Jimmy Eats World

  3. Pingback: 2014. It's going to be a big one. - Jimmy Eats World

  4. Pingback: Off the beaten path in Sisophon with "Toni's tours" - Jimmy Eats World

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

CommentLuv badge